Visit Helsinki: A day at Suomenlinna Island

In commercial collaboration with Helsinki Partners as part of the Influence Sustainably program.

During the Easter holidays we were invited to visit Helsinki as a family and we were so excited to not only visit Finland for the very first time, but to find out more about a city we knew very little of. Over the next few days we found ourselves literally enveloped in such kindness, warmth and adventure and when our time came to go home, it was safe to say we left a little piece of our hearts right there in Helsinki.

When you think of a capital city it’s easy to imagine sky scrapers and imposing buildings, the constant sound of traffic, loud voices, the hustle and bustle of strangers as they go about their daily lives. Whilst Helsinki does indeed boast the most beautiful architecture and grand designs, it does it in a way that is truly surrounded by nature, by space, and by silence.

With 130km of stunning shoreline and over 330 islands, all reachable by bridges or ferries, we were keen to visit one of the most intriguing islands of all – Suomenlinna. Suomelinna sea fortress is a UNESCO world heritage site reached by just a fifteen minute ferry ride from the coast of Helsinki with a regular timetable throughout the day. It can be described as a fully immersive history tour, a living museum of sorts, taking you right back in time to the 19th century and the perfect starting point to learn about Finland and how it came to be.

Quick history lesson…

Suomelinna is of huge importance to the Finn’s, served under three states and used in defence in various battles over the years. During our visit we were fortunate enough to be led by Kasper Mårtenson, the most knowledgable and passionate tour guide, who took us right back to the 19th century when Finland was first colonised by Sweden. It was during this time the Swedes were at war with bordering Russia and built the fortress in a bid to protect Sweden from attack and serve as a fortified army base.

A century later and Finland was occupied by Russia who renamed the island Peter the Great’s Naval Fortress and the tables turned as it was used as a defence against Sweden. It was not until 1917 when Finland finally gained its independence and the following year released the fortress from the Russian rule. The island was renamed Suomelinna, meaning “Castle of Finland” and went on to become a Finnish artillery and military base until around 1970. In 1991 it was announced that Suomelinna was to become a UNESCO world heritage site and to this day it is still one of the most popular attractions in Finland.

Exploring the island…

Suomelinna is completely free to visit and once you’re there you can spend as much or as little time as you like. On the day of our visit the temperature was below zero and with the sea breeze and a flurry of snow it was so cold and yet at the same time, so magical. Despite 800 people living on the island there were times we did not see or hear a single soul which in the Summer months, with over one million tourists, is far more unusual.

Although we loved having a guided tour, for those who prefer to explore by themselves you can follow a simple tourist route which leads you along the main attractions of the island starting at the main quay in front of the Jetty Barracks and ending at the King’s Gate. It runs for around one mile so is a really nice route for those with young children and there are even alternative routes for those with pushchairs, wheelchair users and those with impaired mobility. The thing we really noticed about Helsinki was how inclusive it is for all, from their public outdoor spaces, visitor attractions, restaurants and shopping areas.

We also found that is was a lot of fun to veer off the official routes, explore the hidden paths and discover a Suomelinna of our own. Although we enjoyed the more obvious attractions such as the church, the visitors centre and the Great Courtyard, we also loved the less obvious sights, the times we would dip behind a building and discover something new, the moments the children would lead us through a tunnel where we discovered icicles the size of their arms.

We enjoyed meandering along the coastline, admiring the views, taking in the passing cruise ships which practically skim the island as they sail on by and whimsically dreaming of where they may be heading. There were moments when we just walked in complete silence, each of us just lost in the moment, and I feel that moments like those are very rare these days in a world where we are always rushing from one place to the next, always watching the clock, juggling all our balls in the air, where there are so many rules and restrictions to curb our enjoyment.

Don’t get me wrong, there are of course rules and restrictions on Suomelinna but these reflect the Helsinki way of life of being respectful, being kind, living as sustainably as possible to make sure that places such as Suomelinna remain as unspoilt as they are for years to come. It’s that sense of freedom which makes Suomelinna feel incredibly liberating, perhaps reflecting the true meaning of the island for the Finnish people, and we fully embraced that sentiment, even in sub zero weather.

It was so special to watch the children as they experienced real snow for the first time in years, to hear the sound of their laughter as they caught snowflakes on their tongues, to admire their resilience as they made snowmen even when their gloves soaked to the skin and their hands went numb, when their cheeks glowed rosy red with both the freezing cold and the sheer excitement of it all.

Where to eat…

There are several cafes and restaurants on Suomelinna, it even boasts its very own brewery, and so after a few hours exploring we were keen to warm up, get something to eat and taste some of Helsinki’s finest dishes. We had booked a table at Adlerfelt, described as the happy place of Suomelinna, and with an ever changing menu we couldn’t wait to see what lay in store. We were greeted by a warm welcome, both physically and literally, and as we slowly started to defrost it soon became apparent that Adlerfelt was every bit as lovely as the island it inhabited.

There is so much I want to share with you regarding the food in Helsinki but let me just tell you that it was unlike anywhere we have ever experienced before. Using only the freshest ingredients, sustainably sourced and expertly prepared, even the most simple of dishes were an absolute delight and I doubt we will ever discover a place where the bread could even come close to that in Helsinki.

From the most beautiful poached fish to slow cooked beef cheeks, our lunch was adorned with delicately fragranced flowers, rich infused sauces and the freshest beets imaginable and there was no better end to our visit than to enjoy these dishes as a family. We also tried a Finnish favourite of warm blueberry, a drink we came to love over the course of our stay, and even now we have returned home I find myself craving a mugful when we’ve been out playing in the cold.

Our meal was rounded off with a gift from our host to the children, another example of the kindness we experienced from the people of Helsinki  throughout our stay. From the smallest of gestures such as a passing smile, to those who took the time to direct us from one place to the next, we felt so very welcomed at every turn which is not often the case when visiting a capital city. The children were delighted with their chocolate treats, expertly created inside a real egg shell, and we were so touched by this gift at the end of such a special day.

Time to leave…

We could easily have spent the entire day on Suomelinna and should we have visited in the warmer months we would have done just that. Even having spend several hours on the island there was still so much we did not see such as the visitors centre, the museum and the gift shop packed with souvenirs to take away. As it was we boarded the ferry with bellies full of delicious food, rosy cheeks and warm hearts, and memories of a truly magical day on the most beautiful island.

You can plan your own visit to Suomelinna here on the website www.suomenlinna.fi/en.