At the end of August we were invited to stay at Villa Pia, a beautiful Italian villa described as being “a magical destination for children and adults alike”. Located on the border between Tuscany and Umbria in the small town of Lippiano, Villa Pia is best accessed via hire car from one of many surrounding airports. Having spent the previous week in San Vincenzo we made the three hour drive across to Umbria, stopping at Siena for the day, before arriving at Villa Pia in the late afternoon.

As we turned into Villa Pia down a secluded private path, it soon became apparent that the villa was unlike anywhere we had ever stayed before. Set amongst 5 acres of land, the villa boasts 25 bedrooms split between the main house, a large renovated building to the right as well as extra accommodation at Palazzo Regina just 5 minutes away.

Built around a large open courtyard, the villa epitomises everything you would expect from a rustic Italian country home and, on seeing the children’s play area, the relaxing seating areas and the views in the distance, none of us could believe our luck that we would spend the next seven nights relaxing in such a beautiful setting.

Offering all inclusive accommodation, with drinks and food fully included, we were quickly offered drinks, a snack for the children, and introduced to the other guest who would join us during our stay. With restrictions due to COVID there would be just 8 other families staying at the villa that week, far less than the average year, and with Villa Pia very much about communal living we wasted no time getting to know our fellow guests.

The Villa

Built in the 15th century, Villa Pia is utterly beautiful and, from the very first day we pulled up and saw it, to the very moment we left, it never failed to make me catch my breath. With big wooden shutters and open balconies, tall ceilings and tiled floors, the villa remains incredibly rustic, very traditional and has the added bonus of being surrounded by the most stunning views you can ever imagine.

Inside, the villa is very much a communal space for guests to enjoy and you are instantly encouraged to make yourself at home. As you enter the villa there is a large open hallway where you would ordinarily find the downstairs toilet. Due to COVID restrictions this was out of use during our say and guests had to return to their own rooms to use the toilet which wasn’t an issue and we were all grateful for the measures in place.

The other major change due to COVID was found in the kitchen where ordinarily you would help yourself to drinks and snacks as and when required throughout your stay. Due to restrictions guests were not allowed to help themselves and a member of staff was on duty to serve drinks and snacks throughout the day. The children soon got the hang of ringing the bell to order their drinks and by the second day even Eva, who is painfully shy, was appearing with snacks and drinks she had ordered herself.

Further into the main house was my favourite room the library where you could borrow one of many books and, even better, secure the best spot for a WiFi connection. Although Villa Pia does offer free WiFi throughout, the signal was very poor and whilst in some ways this was just another excuse to switch off and relax, at other times it was difficult when guests had work commitments.

The main house also boasts a music room where the children all enjoyed learning to play the piano, play games and enjoy some time indoors during the hottest part of the day. The house also offered an indoor playroom which had a variety of toys for all ages.

Every room in Villa Pia very much felt like somebody’s home and yet somehow, we never once felt as though we were intruding.  The villa definitely has a wonderful ability to make you feel very welcome and I think that is testament to the owner and the wonderful team of staff who very much feel like one big family.

The main house bedrooms can be accessed via a large staircase upstairs where as downstairs in the basement you will find treatment rooms for the beauty therapist who provides various beauty treatments and massages at an extra cost. We didn’t book any during our stay but the guests we spoke to were very impressed with the quality of these treatments.

To the right of the main house is a large restored building solely purposed for guest accommodation. We didn’t see these bedrooms personally but from various conversations with other guests they were suitable for families and appeared to be a little quieter than those in the main house.

To the left of the main house in another of the buildings you will find the indoor dining area, used more commonly during the colder months, an indoor soft play area in the basement (this was closed due to COVID) and a games room upstairs which could be accessed from the top of the drive way.

You can imagine how excited the children were to discover the football table and table tennis and soon got stuck in with their new friends. We would often notice just how quiet the main villa had become and discover all of the children up in the games room enjoying football tournaments together. I love that Villa Pia  really encourages good old fashioned fun, something that is really important to us in the way we raise our children.

I love how in every part of Villa Pia there are nods to the original uses for every building and these features really do add to that authentic Italian country feel. We enjoyed learning more about the history of the villa during our stay and speaking to the owner, Morag, about how Villa Pia has grown over the years.

Our rooms

Our rooms were situated in the main house where there are 17 bedrooms ranging in size and 5 of which are interconnecting. We were allocated two bedrooms, one with a double bed and a single and one next door with 4 single beds. Due to the rooms not being interconnecting Gaz and I split between the rooms so that we were each with the children. I lucked out with the double bed!

The main thing to bear in mind about the  accommodation at Villa Pia is that it is very traditional for an Italian villa and doesn’t have the luxury feel you may have come to expect from a hotel. The floors are bare tiles, the furniture sparce, but the rooms are lovely and spacious and have some really interesting and unique features.

Each of the rooms have private bathrooms and ours had a small bath, toilet and sink. Admittedly the bathrooms are a little dated but this simply adds to the Italian charm and they were spotlessly cleaned each day by the housekeeping staff.

Our only real issue with the rooms was the lack of air conditioning which none of the rooms in Villa Pia offer. Obviously during the cooler months this isn’t an issue but during the peak of Summer in 35 degree heat the rooms were unbearably hot, especially during the night. Our room had a large window with wooden shutters but having made the mistake of sleeping with the window open on the first night and being eaten to death by mosquitos, the remaining six nights the windows were closed and we had to rely on the electric fan in the room to try and cool us down.

We also found that with our rooms being situated at the front of the house, above the kitchen and overlooking the courtyard, we were woken each morning very early with noise below or other children playing out in the play area from 6am. We also found that many of the guests would stay out drinking in the courtyard, often until 5am, and the noise echoed very loudly into our rooms. I think these issues are dependent on the actions of the other guests but if you do prefer a quiet room it may well be worth requesting one which does not directly overlook the courtyard.

The second room had a very different decor to the first and, although we didn’t see the other rooms we were told by the other guests that every room was very different which I love. The girls loved the pink walls as you can imagine and we were grateful for another large room which was far cooler than the first too (more fool me for bagsying that double bed!).

With four single beds the room is perfect for larger families with older children who are happy to sleep in a separate bedroom although for younger children I would recommend specifying an interconnecting room. That said we did feel incredibly safe throughout our time at the villa and I can honestly say that from the minute we  checked in until the day we checked out, we never once locked our bedroom doors. For us as a family who is extremely safety aware, this is unheard of (our friends back home couldn’t believe it!) and I think that speaks volumes about the kind of place Villa Pia is.

The second room had the bonus of a spacious bathroom and a full sized bath, perfect for young children. Each day fresh towels were brought to our room and although Villa Pia does ask that guests bring their own beach towels for the pool, they are available on request for those, like us, who forgot to pack them!

Gardens & Facilities

Villa Pia is completely centred around catering for families, particularly those with young children. The most amazing thing about Villa Pia is that, as mentioned before, it feels incredibly safe so for our children at 6, 7 and 8, they were able to have a real taste of freedom for the first time in their lives and, as long as they stuck together, we allowed them to wander around the gardens and grounds freely.

The other great thing about Villa Pia is that all of the children form very tight bonds almost instantly and as a group will entertain each other all day long. From the minute we arrived and the children met the other guests in the court yard, they were inseparable and I know myself from my own childhood experiences, holiday friendships feel pretty special.

Everything and everywhere within the grounds of Villa Pia is open to their guests, nothing is off limits, and whilst not all of the equipment is up to date, and some things, such as the bikes, could do with replacing, it is very much centred around getting outdoors and creating your own fun.

The gardens are beautiful with lots of little nooks and crannies to explore, dens to make and trails to follow. There is nothing we loved more than seeing the children run wild and enjoy their freedom, even more so after the draconian times of lockdown during the first half of the year. It’s only when I heard the sound of their laughter and the look of pure happiness on their little faces that I realised just how much lockdown had affected these children of ours and it truly was lovely to see.

Each of the children found their own little favourite spots in the gardens and I think for Eva this little hideaway in the garden was hers. At various times throughout the week I would walk up the steps and hear them playing shops or schools, even drawing a sign at one point reading “No boys allowed”, much to Harry’s annoyance!

As you explore the grounds there are wide open areas looking out onto the most stunning Italian countryside views with rope swings and a trampoline as well as a children’s play area. The only issue was that it was a huge trap for the many bugs in the area and by the end of the week there wasn’t a single guest who wasn’t covered head to toe in mosquito bites. This obviously can’t be helped but I would strongly recommend packing some heavy duty bug-repellent and long sleeved tops and trousers for the evening too.

The children did enjoy the playground but I think when the villa is at full capacity with 25 families, a larger more updated playground would really be an added asset. You can see that Villa Pia are very much about keeping their facilities as they originally were on opening but over time items do become worn and whether they are treated to a lick of paint or a complete renovation, those things are always going to make a big difference.

When it comes to the Tennis Court there are no complaints and this really is a huge bonus to Villa Pia. Neither Gaz or I play tennis so we didn’t try them out but several of the guests enjoyed a game of tennis and as far as views go, I don’t think you’ll get better than this!

Our favourite spot was at the back of the villa in the small stone walled gardens. In the evening we would often sit there with a drink before dinner, just enjoying the view and some private space from the other guests and catching up on our day.

Whoever takes care of the gardens at Villa Pia does an incredible job and in those moments, surrounded by lush greenery and beautiful flowers, it felt as though we were the only people staying at the villa. As much as it is always lovely to meet new people and learn more about their lives, it can be a little exhausting to always have to socialise, engage in small talk, and try to find common ground when you are very different people.

Although we had a much smaller group of people staying at the villa during our stay, in some ways this amplified the intimacy of the setting and heightened that communal feel, and so finding time away from the group was important. We became very good at seeking out the quieter areas and took full advantage of that!

 We enjoyed spending time in the gardens at Villa Pia but I think if I were to ask the children what their favourite part of the villa was they would say, without a moments hesitation, that it was the pool! Combined with 5 acres of rolling countryside, the villa itself and the facilities provided, the pool really was the icing on the cake!

Swimming pool

Villa Pia offers two swimming pools a short walk from the main house and over looking the stunning views across Umbria. Positioned for optimum sunshine, the pool has a number of sun loungers and parasols as well as a sheltered sandpit and trampoline on the terrace.

With just eight families at the villa during our stay we found we were able to get a sun lounger each day and at various times even had the pool to ourselves but when the villa is running at full capacity I worry this would not be the case.

Both pools are heated all year round which definitely took the edge off and with an average temperature of 35 degrees it was lovely to jump in and cool down. Although our children knew that they must not go to the swimming pool without us, they loved the freedom of returning to the main house for drinks, snacks or to visit the play area which actually meant that Gaz and I got to enjoy some peace and quiet – bliss!

The smaller children’s pool seemed to be less popular with the guests due to feeling a lot colder, perhaps due to being in the shade at various parts of the day, although the little slide was definitely a big hit with the little ones.

For me the views from the pool were the real clincher, something you don’t get at a regular resort or hotel, and I think that’s always going to be a real selling point of Villa Pia full stop. Regardless of everything else going on in the world right now, those moments just admiring the view and feeling the sun on our faces really did give us the boost we desperately needed to get through the next few months.

And it was the same for the kids too, just being able to escape the confusion of a situation they don’t really understand and enjoy their childhood whole heartedly.  Whether they were dive bombing into the pool, playing mermaids or bouncing on the trampoline, our days at the pool were carefree and filled with fun, and we really couldn’t have asked for more.

The Food

If there’s one thing Italians love the most it’s food and this was most definitely the case at Villa Pia. We had read amazing reviews about the food at Villa Pia before our stay and, loving Italian food as much as we do, we had high hopes for the catering and it did not disappoint.

Breakfast

Breakfast at Villa Pia is very laid back with a variety of cereals, croissants, bread, ham and cheese. It was quite a small selection and yet the kids were happy with chocolate croissants and Coco Pops where as I had gluten free toast and we ate it in the sunshine together.

With lunch and dinner served at specific times at Villa Pia, breakfast was the one meal each day we could enjoy just the five of us together and I really enjoyed those moments to ourselves just talking about our plans for the day.

Lunch time

Lunch was served at 1pm, notified by the ringing of a bell and found inside the dining room across two serving stations. Ordinarily this would be a self service buffet but due to COVID a member of staff served each guest their lunch.

The selection of foods at lunch time were always incredible with at least twenty dishes to choose from, all equally delicious and using local produce. The majority of dishes were meat-free with usually just a couple using fish or meat which is great for those who are vegetarian or even vegan.

I have to say that Vila Pia is incredible at dealing with dietary requirements, being gluten free in Italy can often feel quite overwhelming so this was a huge relief from the offset. Every single one of my meals was delivered gluten free, the majority of times the exact same meal as the other guests were served, and at lunch time I would always be brought a huge bowl of pasta to enjoy as well as the gluten free dishes from the buffet.

At lunchtime the children ate the same meal as the adults which was great in some ways but the fussier children definitely struggled a little with some of the dishes. I know for us having Harry, the fussiest child of all time, there were days when he would barely eat at lunch and as amazing as it was for us to try so many tasty dishes, perhaps a few more which catered to the children would be helpful.

  Lunch was eaten on the long communal tables together as a group and we often found the children would situate themselves at one end and the adults at the other. Despite being a group affair it was still very informal with the children often sitting down to eat in their swim wear with no fuss or airs and graces.

Alongside the savoury dishes there was always a sweet option be that fresh water melon, apple strudel, Tiramisu or something else entirely. All I know is that after every lunch time we were absolutely stuffed full and would often go back up to our room to freshen up, flop down on the bed and try our very hardest not to drift off!

Kids Dinner

Dinner at Villa Pia is very much split into the children’s dinner and the adults. So at 6pm the bell will ring and the children are called for dinner to either sit down together or as a family and, much like lunch, they can choose from a selection of foods which are served to them.

We felt that the children’s dinner was more child-friendly than lunch, consisting of a mix of dishes which appeal to most children. From plain pasta to fresh pizza, even the fussiest eaters were able to tuck in and enjoy some of their favourite dishes.

Whilst Harry was happier with pizza and chips, the girls enjoyed trying more of the fresh vegetables, cold meats and Italian cheese and, after a long day playing in the  pool, they certainly had the appetite for it!

Again dinner for the kids was a very informal affair with the kids often eating at the tables by themselves whilst the adults enjoyed a drink in the court yard or just a moments peace in the gardens. Villa Pia really encourages independence with the children and I think it did ours the world of good to have to speak up, make choices and form bonds with the rest of the group. Eva especially seemed to thrive in that environment and it was so lovely to see,

  At the end of dinner dessert was brought out for the children which was anything from ice cream to chocolate cake, all of which were demolished instantly! There was never a shortage of food for any of us and I genuinely don’t remember feeling hungry for the entire duration of our stay!

Adults Dinner

As I said earlier, the adults eat separate to the children at Villa Pia, eating at 8.30pm and, with four courses served to the table, this usually lasted a couple of hours at least. I will be honest, this is something we struggled with at first, particularly as a family who love to spend time together, especially when we travel. We also had some concerns as to where our children would be during the meal and think it’s would have been nice to have the option of eating together as a family should we wish.

Luckily with the set-up of Villa Pia the children could play on the play area well within our sight whilst we ate although as they, and we, became more secure in our surroundings they would sit inside the playroom, or the music room just inside the main door. Many of the guests put their younger children to bed before dinner and those with older children were happy to entertain themselves. Villa Pia does offer a babysitting service so it’s definitely worth enquiring about that should you have any reservations.

The other thing that we found a little unusual about Villa Pia is that you have no other option than to eat communally each night. Don’t get me wrong, we love to meet new people and yet should you wish to eat alone away from the group, there was no set up for this. The meals are to be eaten communally on the long tables outdoors, or indoors during the bad weather or colder months, and with a set menu each night there are no alternatives other than to meet dietary requirements.

The amount of wine served each evening is generous to say the least, with bottles of wine placed on the table for guests to help themselves. Like clockwork the courses would be served with the first being a starter such as a salad, mozarella and tomatoes, quiche or soup. Every single meal we had was utterly delicious!

The next course was always pasta or risotto and generously proportioned. Many of the guests who had visited before told us to prepare for at least a 14lb weight gain during our stay and after our first day we could completely  see why!

The main course was always meat or fish, potatoes or rice and vegetables and ranged from slow cooked chicken to roasted beef ribs. On Wednesday evenings at the Villa the meat or fish is cooked on the open fire in the kitchen which was exciting and luckily for us, the week of our stay was steak.

And lastly dessert, by which time we were usually completely and utterly stuffed but always found room for that last mouthful. From lemon cheesecake to traditional Italian puddings, you couldn’t fault a single dish and the service from the staff was always impeccable.

Nearby

Within walking distance of Villa Pia you can venture into Lippiano, a small and sleepy town with a shop and a bar where you can get ice cream, pizzas and other smaller snacks. It was nice to walk up into the town purely for a change of scenery or to walk off some food after lunch, and we loved how you could walk around the whole town without seeing a single other person!

I would definitely recommend taking a hire car during for your stay, not just to access the villa itself but to take full advantage of the amazing places to visit nearby. During our stay we visited Florence and Perugia as well as various other smaller hilltop towns surrounding the area.

So would we recommend Villa Pia?

There is no denying that Villa Pia is incredible. The location is picture perfect, the food is out of this world, the villa itself offers so much for families such as ours, and yet I have to really stress the point that this is very much a communal holiday. More than that, the guests at Villa Pia are not your average person, we found that every single one of the other guests lived and worked in  London either in the medical profession as doctors or consultants, or the legal profession as barristers and lawyers. For us as the only Northerners, living very normal lives here in Lancashire with very different jobs, it did feel that we were the “odd ones out” in many ways.

Ultimately I guess the thing about Villa Pia is that it’s not supposed to be a luxury five star resort, it doesn’t claim to be, nor does it want to be. Yes some of the facilities are a little worn, the rooms a little hot, the house a little creaky in those 4am wake-ups, but the beauty of it is that it is real and rustic and for every second of our stay I really felt like we were in the middle of nowhere in the Italian countryside, and you just don’t get that in most hotels these days.

Many of the guests at Villa Pia return year after year, treating the house like a second home, the staff like an extended family, and yet still enjoying every single say as though it’s the first time they have visited. I know that for us, we will always remember our stay at Villa Pia as the year we left behind the stress and the fear of a world pandemic and allowed our children to just be children, the year we drank Aperol Spritz like they were going out of fashion and counted our bug bites every night before bed. The year the children learned to swim without arm bands, ate gelato in Florence and watched the sunset across Umbrian vineyards hand in hand. Because despite the niggles, when we look back on our stay, the description of Villa Pia still remains the same….

“A magical destination for children and adults alike”.

And it really and truly is.

** We  were invited to Villa Pia for the purpose of our stay. All words and opinions are our own **